Clothes of the 17th Century

The garments of everyday people were derived from court dress, so were often decades behind current fashions. Older people were also in the habit of continuing to wear clothes from the fashion of their youth, so a range of styles even in a group concentrating on a limited time-span is not uncommon.

The emphasis of Living History groups is on authenticity; i.e. garments are clothes not costumes, created using historical sources. Clothes made accurately using the right materials can outlive theatrical costume by years.


Wenceslas Hollar Engravings (mid 17th Century)

Fabrics
shifts, shirts, collars, coifs and neckerchiefs should be made of linen or cotton. Cotton is cheaper at £2 per Metre, but linen looks better and lasts longer. It costs about £5 p/m. Doublets, breeches, skirts, stays and bodices should be constructed from wool (though modern wool mixes are preferable as they can be washed rather than dry cleaned). Can be picked up in the sales from £5 p/m. Lace was a luxury, so a heavily-trimmed set of clothes implies wealth (though it costs just a few pence per metre now).

Colours
The colour of your outfit will depend on your class. Natural dyes of strong colours were available in the 17th century, but they would fade quickly, especially if you were outdoors in all weather. Linen should be cream, grey or beige for lower classes, as white linen was quite expensive. One period technique of bleaching linen is to use urine. Modern stain removers use artificially produced urea to achieve the same result.

Shoes
Shoes range from the country bumpkins "startups" (lace up ankle boots), through open/closed "latchet" shoes to "bucket topped" boots. Prices from £50 to £200 - so not cheap! You may like to wear an old pair of adapted desert boots or clogs/mules until you take the plunge with authentic shoes. Trainers are not suitable.

Shift/Shirt
The shift is a longer version of the shirt, worn ankle or knee length. Sleeves should typically cover the elbow, and usually reach the wrist. It wasn’t uncommon for a woman of the 17th century to wear a man’s shirt if her shift was in the wash (how little things change). Cost between £15 and £30, but are very easy to make.

Stays
Stays (corset) are recommended to give the correct conical female silhouette. Do not constrict the waist as much as later corsets, and gives support to both the small and large bust. Period examples usually have a carved wooden busk in the centre panel, and small bundles of reeds (bents) as boning (long cable ties are a good modern substitute). Stays cost as little as £10 to make, but can cost £60 or more to buy, so this is often one of the last purchaces of the female reenactor.

Hose
Worn by men and women, and held up by tapes fixed to the waist/breeches, or at the knee with garters. Plain cotton hose cost about £3, wool and linen are more expensive.

Bodice
Worn over stays, with or without sleeves. 17th century designs sometimes have detachable sleeves, which can be attached (by laces or hooks & eyes) when temperatures drop. A bodice can be picked up for about £30.

Doublet (male) Jacket (female)
Similar in style to earlier doublets, these were close-fitting garments, covering the body from the neck to the waist or a little below. Sometimes have tabbed waists & occasionally slashed sleeves to show the lining. When worn without sleeves (rather like a modern waistcoat), called a singlet. Can cost in the region of £50.

Turncoat
A livery coat lined with a different colour to the outside, just in case their owner should ever get the urge to take it off and turn it inside out in a hurry (good for re-enactment purposes, especially in a smaller group)! Soldiers coats can be bought for around £30 and are popular with reenactors.

Breeches
Worn by men (and occasionally women*), reaching from the waist, covering the hips and thighs down to the knee. Worn with hose. If you buy a woolen pair, I recommend they are lined, or you wear cotton/linen underhose. £15 upwards.

Petticoat (Skirt)
The fullness indicates your status, ie: noblewomen will spend more on material. Showing your ankles in the 17th century was not considered indecent (unlike in Victorian times), but should not be above calf length. Try to avoid hems dragging on the ground, as it can cause you discomfort in wet weather. More than one petticoat is generally worn. Cost less than £10 to make, but can also be bought cheaply.

Collar/Neckerchief
Gives the wearer an air of modesty & Keeps the neck warm in winter, the sun off in the summer. Plain collars are one of the easiest things to make, and hand-sewing can prove a good conversation starter with the public. Soft falling ruffs were still being worn at this time, but were declining rapidly in popularity. Prices from £5 plain, £10 or more with embroidery. Ruffs are more expensive.

Headwear
From the 11th century onwards Women usually had their head covered (by a bonnet, coif or scarf) at all times, unless their hair was dressed. An uncovered head and no hairstyle imply laziness. There is one regional difference however: 17th century Scottish women wore their hair in red ribbons before they were married, then covered up.
Men should also wear coifs or hats, which were also worn in church. When doffing your hat to a lady, remember to point the inside of the crown away from her - To exibit the "veritable zoological garden of lice, ticks and fleas" that would have have been residing there would have given much insult. Coifs/Caps cost £5 upwards, hats from aroud £30. Can be decorated with ribbons or feathers.

* She-soldiers were women who dressed in men's clothing in order to go to war. They may have been following their husbands, or supplying services to the soldiers (laundry women & cooks, as well as prostitutes). Women soldiers were very unusual, but women caught in siege situations were commonplace. They would not usually be engaged directly in the fighting, but records show they were often involved in keeping the men stocked with ammunition.

Doublet and breeches by LaRoche 1618

Simple collar ideas. Measure around neck and width of shoulders to calculate size. May be trimmed with cotton lace (not nylon) for upper classes.

Falling band collar: more complicated, involving some simple maths! Measure around the neck to calculate number of pleats required.

If you feel I have broken copywrite with any of these images, please email me and I will acknowledge their ownership/remove them as required. Or perhaps you have a pattern you'd like to see posted here? Then please also get in touch!