The emphasis of Living History groups is on authenticity; i.e. garments are clothes not costumes, created using historical sources. Clothes made accurately using the right materials can outlive theatrical costume by years.



Colours
The colour of your outfit will depend on your class.
Natural dyes of strong colours were available in the 17th century, but
they would fade quickly, especially if you were outdoors in all weather.
Linen should be cream, grey or beige for lower classes, as white linen was
quite expensive. One period technique of bleaching linen is to use urine.
Modern stain removers use artificially produced urea to achieve the same
result.
Shoes
Shoes
range from the country bumpkins "startups" (lace up ankle boots), through
open/closed "latchet" shoes to "bucket topped" boots. Prices from £50 to
£200 - so not cheap! You may like to wear an old pair of adapted desert
boots or clogs/mules until you take the plunge with authentic shoes.
Trainers are not suitable.
Shift/Shirt
The
shift is a longer version of the shirt, worn ankle or knee length. Sleeves
should typically cover the elbow, and usually reach the wrist. It wasn’t
uncommon for a woman of the 17th century to wear a man’s shirt if her
shift was in the wash (how little things change). Cost between £15 and
£30, but are very easy to make.
Stays
Stays
(corset) are recommended to give the correct conical female silhouette. Do
not constrict the waist as much as later corsets, and gives support to
both the small and large bust. Period examples usually have a carved
wooden busk in the centre panel, and small bundles of reeds (bents) as
boning (long cable ties are a good modern substitute). Stays cost as
little as £10 to make, but can cost £60 or more to buy, so this is often
one of the last purchaces of the female reenactor.
Hose
Worn by men
and women, and held up by tapes fixed to the waist/breeches, or at the
knee with garters. Plain cotton hose cost about £3, wool and linen are
more expensive.
Bodice
Worn
over stays, with or without sleeves. 17th century designs sometimes have
detachable sleeves, which can be attached (by laces or hooks & eyes)
when temperatures drop. A bodice can be picked up for about £30.
Doublet (male)
Jacket (female)
Similar in style to earlier doublets, these were
close-fitting garments, covering the body from the neck to the waist or a
little below. Sometimes have tabbed waists & occasionally slashed
sleeves to show the lining. When worn without sleeves (rather like a
modern waistcoat), called a singlet. Can cost in the region of £50.
Turncoat
A
livery coat lined with a different colour to the outside, just in case
their owner should ever get the urge to take it off and turn it inside out
in a hurry (good for re-enactment purposes, especially in a smaller
group)! Soldiers coats can be bought for around £30 and are popular with
reenactors.
Breeches
Worn by men (and occasionally women*),
reaching from the waist, covering the hips and thighs down to the knee.
Worn with hose. If you buy a woolen pair, I recommend they are lined, or
you wear cotton/linen underhose. £15 upwards.
Petticoat
(Skirt)
The fullness indicates your status, ie: noblewomen will
spend more on material. Showing your ankles in the 17th century was not
considered indecent (unlike in Victorian times), but should not be above
calf length. Try to avoid hems dragging on the ground, as it can cause you
discomfort in wet weather. More than one petticoat is generally worn. Cost
less than £10 to make, but can also be bought cheaply.
Collar/Neckerchief
Gives the wearer an air of modesty
& Keeps the neck warm in winter, the sun off in the summer. Plain
collars are one of the easiest things to make, and hand-sewing can prove a
good conversation starter with the public. Soft falling ruffs were still
being worn at this time, but were declining rapidly in popularity. Prices
from £5 plain, £10 or more with embroidery. Ruffs are more expensive.
Headwear
From the 11th century onwards Women usually
had their head covered (by a bonnet, coif or scarf) at all times, unless
their hair was dressed. An uncovered head and no hairstyle imply laziness.
There is one regional difference however: 17th century Scottish women wore
their hair in red ribbons before they were married, then covered
up.
Men should also wear coifs or hats, which were also worn in church.
When doffing your hat to a lady, remember to point the inside of the crown
away from her - To exibit the "veritable zoological garden of lice, ticks
and fleas" that would have have been residing there would have given much
insult. Coifs/Caps cost £5 upwards, hats from aroud £30. Can be decorated
with ribbons or feathers.
* She-soldiers were women who dressed in men's clothing in order to go to war. They may have been following their husbands, or supplying services to the soldiers (laundry women & cooks, as well as prostitutes). Women soldiers were very unusual, but women caught in siege situations were commonplace. They would not usually be engaged directly in the fighting, but records show they were often involved in keeping the men stocked with ammunition.
Doublet and breeches by LaRoche 1618
Simple collar ideas. Measure around neck and width of shoulders to
calculate size. May be trimmed with cotton lace (not nylon) for upper
classes.
Falling band collar: more complicated, involving some simple maths! Measure around the neck to calculate number of pleats required.
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